Mountain View Park

County map of our neighborhood.

Master Bedroom Deck Project #3

Part 3, decking.

January 23, 2016

This was probably the most physically exhausting part of the project so far.  It sounds silly, but moving 18 redwood 2"x6"x16' boards up onto the deck frame was no small task.

All boards moved up onto the frame.

And time for a break.

January 28, 2016

All boards are pre-drilled and attached with #10x3" coated deck screws.  Right now they're flush to the surface but eventually I'll be pulling them one at a time to countersink and plug them all.  This should make it look a lot nicer and prevent moisture issues in the screw holes.

Just over half the boards are screwed in.

 January 30, 2016

Got the last of the boards attached first thing in the morning and then installed two 10' rain gutter sections above the deck so that we won't have water pouring down from the roof onto the deck surface.  Gutters have been something we've needed on this side of the house but it hasn't been a priority before now.

Last two boards attached.

We have to climb out the window, but the deck is already getting used.

Master Bedroom Deck Project #2

Part 2, Posts, Beam and Frame.

January 23, 2016

First up was placing the 6"x6" posts.

This was odd because unlike every other piece of dimensional lumber, these were actually the exact size, not 1/2" smaller.  Not a big deal, except that the Simpson brackets that attach them to the concrete pads and that will attach the beam don't fit.

No biggy, I pulled out the router and a top bearing mortising bit, attached an MDF guide to the posts and removed enough wood so that everything will fit.

Removed approx. 1/4" on each side of the post so it would fit in the bracket.

Another angle of the mortise for the bracket.

MDF being used as a guide and spacer for the router bit.

Once they were able to fit in the brackets we measured out from the bottom of the ledger and then down 11.5" to accommodate the 3 2"x12"x16' boards we were using for the beam.  Then both posts were cut to size with the circular saw.

Cutting the beams required 4 passes with the circular saw and then a flush cut hand saw to finish it.

Once that was complete the posts were bolted into place.

Andrew securing the post to the bracket.

Andrew securing the post to the bracket.

Then the guides and router were used to get the upper brackets to fit and the 3 2"x12" boards were placed on top.

Beam in place.  The 3 boards are attached from the outside boards using 3" coated wood screws every 16" alternating top and bottom.

2"x8"x8' pressure treated joists were attached to the ledger using double shear joist hangers and 16d nails.  All hardware used is hot dipped galvanized or coated and approved for use in the pressure treated lumber.

Verifying the joists are going to be level.

Joists are all secured to the beam with hurricane ties and 10d nails.

The first few joists in place.

Finally the rim joist was attached to the end of the ledgers with #10x3" coated screws, 3 into each joist.

Master Bedroom Deck Project #1

Part 1, planning, prep and the foundation.

This will be a post/thread/blog about the new deck we're building off of the master bedroom.

We're having new energy efficient windows installed in February and the existing window will be replaced with a sliding glass door.  Before they can install a door we need a deck though.

Luckily we were able to borrow the stakebed truck form Kellie's work so we got everything for the base of the deck in one trip.

Here is a "before" photo, although it's obviously after we'd started buying the lumber.

Here is a drawing from Sketchup with the initial deck plans.  The railing will probably change, the posts on it certainly will.

Sketchup model of the project.

January 17, 2016.

First up, attaching the ledger board.  This was attached with 21 "LedgerLOK" bolts.  They claim to be stronger than the 1/2"x5" lag screws and are approved in code.  I'm sure someone will point out that code calls for the stucco to be completely removed so that the ledger is in direct contact with the rim joist with a Z flashing installed to direct water away from the ledger and opening in the stucco.  I opted to not go this route because it seemed like removing that much quality stucco would be creating more of a problem leading to wood rod than it would be preventing.  All holes were pre-drilled and sealed with silicon, the edges around the ledger were also caulked to prevent moisture issues.

Initial placing and leveling of the 2x8x16 ledger board.

Ledger Board Bolted to the house.

January 18, 2016

With the ledger up I was able to measure and space the locations for the two posts.  Posts are 6"x6"x8' pressure treated.  Footers will be at least 18"x18"x21"deep with Simpson anchors that elevate them above the pad.
On digging the first hole I ran into some concrete, afraid it might be part of the septic system I kept digging and unearthed what appears to be block wall about 20" below grade.  One neighbor mentioned he'd seen old photos of the area and there may have been a used car dealer on our lot back in the 50's or 60's.  After verifying it was not a septic tank I blocked off where I needed the pad and backfilled.  The pad sits directly on the corner of the wall, so I'm not worried about it shifting.

Something in the bottom of the hole!

Looks to be the corner of a wall or foundation.

Framed and concrete poured.

Frames removed the following day.

January 20, 2016

It rained on the 19th so that delayed this pour by a day.  The second pad was uneventful.  I ran into some sprinkler lines, but the existing irrigation system is a mess so I cut them and will just abandon the rest of the system in favor of doing it the right way in the near future.

Pads were allowed to cure for 3+ days before we continued on with the next step of adding the posts and beam.